The Monaco Grand Prix, often hailed as the crown jewel of the Formula 1 calendar, is a unique event that historically transcends mere motorsport. It’s a glittering spectacle, a glamorous showcase of speed and precision set against the breathtaking backdrop of the Principality. However, as Dieter Rencken observes, there’s a growing sense that the allure of this iconic race might be fading. This paddock diary delves into the nuances of the 2018 event, exploring the underlying reasons why Monaco’s appeal appears to be on a gradual, yet noticeable, decline.
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Sunday 8:30am
Having checked out of my digs, my mission is to reach the circuit within the hour – a goal I achieve, give or take a few minutes. The journey itself offers an unexpected insight into the day’s atmosphere: the streets are remarkably quiet. This early morning calm doesn’t bode well for a full house, and immediately sparks a familiar concern. Over the years, the crowd at Monaco has undeniably dwindled. A decade ago, virtually every balcony overlooking even a sliver of the track would be packed with spectators, a vibrant tapestry of faces reflecting the excitement of the race. Today, the visible gaps are more pronounced, leading me to question how much of this decline is fueled by the exorbitant prices – a pervasive complaint that echoes through the principality during Grand Prix weekend. From accommodation to hospitality, every aspect seems designed to extract maximum value, potentially alienating a significant portion of the traditional fanbase.
Adding to the general weariness is the almost predictable occurrence of strikes in France during the Monaco Grand Prix weekend. It feels like an annual tradition, a frustrating inconvenience for anyone attempting to travel to or from the principality. While workers are certainly entitled to voice their grievances, the timing often feels punitive to those simply trying to attend a major international event. This year was no exception. Wednesday and Thursday saw air traffic control action causing significant disruptions to flights. Friday and Saturday brought railway staff downing tools, making train travel a lottery. And, to cap it all off, yet another air traffic strike was scheduled for Sunday evening, creating a looming cloud of uncertainty over departure plans. These repeated logistical nightmares contribute significantly to the perceived hassle of attending the Monaco Grand Prix, potentially deterring future visitors who seek a seamless and enjoyable experience.
10am
An early appointment I had scheduled with the Mexican Grand Prix promoter has been unexpectedly postponed to Silverstone. He’s been held up in another meeting, likely with Liberty Media, the commercial rights holders of Formula 1. This gives me a precious hour to kill before heading off to record a podcast for Viasat, the Scandinavian broadcaster. Due to strict broadcast contracts and circuit regulations, we are not permitted to record within the confines of the paddock itself. This necessitates a short walk up to the quay, a strategic move that offers a more open perspective of the circuit, contrasting with the often claustrophobic environment of the paddock. As the distant drone of the Porsche Supercup race provides a fitting soundtrack, our discussion naturally gravitates towards recent F1 developments. We delve into Liberty Media’s recent team meeting, speculating on the outcomes and their implications for the sport’s future, and also touch upon Ferrari’s intriguing double ERS battery system, a technical innovation that continues to generate considerable discussion within the paddock.
12:00pm
My next stop is the Pirelli hospitality, where the tyre company’s esteemed CEO and Vice President, Marco Tronchetti Provera, addresses the assembled media. Pirelli’s current three-year contract as Formula 1’s sole tyre supplier is set to expire at the end of the 2019 F1 season, making contract extension negotiations an imminent and critical topic. The conversation swiftly turns to the future of F1 tyres, with strong indications that low-profile tyres, most likely on 18-inch rims, are firmly back on the agenda for the sport. This shift holds profound commercial implications for Pirelli, should they extend their deal for another three years. Currently, the company’s most prominent on-car branding occupies the generous sidewalls of the existing high-profile tyres. The move to smaller, lower-profile rubber would inevitably reduce this valuable advertising space. Adding another layer of complexity, Pirelli’s current corporate identity guidelines do not permit curved logos, posing a significant design challenge for branding on smaller, curved sidewalls.
Seizing the opportunity, I pose a direct question to Tronchetti: is he prepared to accept smaller branding real estate, or will Pirelli’s internal corporate identity policies be amended to adapt, should the company remain in F1? His response is delivered with a subtle, almost Mona Lisa-esque smile, a blend of knowing confidence and playful evasiveness. “We’ve thought of that, and are prepared,” he responds, hinting at extensive prior planning. “We tested low-profile tyres here in Monaco three years ago, so have some ideas…” This confirms that Pirelli is not only aware of the challenge but has already been proactively developing solutions, demonstrating their commitment to F1 regardless of the technical specifications. As the press session draws to a close, a familiar and esteemed figure walks in: Sir Jackie Stewart. The warm greeting between him and Tronchetti Provera immediately reveals them to be old friends, a testament to the enduring relationships within the F1 world. I couldn’t resist asking the triple world champion if he ever raced on Pirelli tyres during his illustrious career. After some thoughtful discussion, we speculate about the 1967 Brands Hatch Six Hours, a memorable event where he and Chris Amon famously drove a Ferrari 330 P4 to victory.
Subsequently, my research reveals that the magnificent Ferrari 330 P4 was not, in fact, shod with Italian rubber on that particular day. However, Jackie’s anecdote from that race is too good not to share: “Chris had been to a party the night before, so was feeling off-colour,” Stewart recounts with a chuckle. “He was sick in the car, and came into the pits unable to continue. I had to drive the car like, and drove about two-thirds of the race. Maybe we won because I wanted to get out of the car as soon as possible…” It’s a classic tale from a bygone era of motorsport, highlighting the grit, determination, and occasional human frailty that were once commonplace in endurance racing.
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12:30pm
Following the Pirelli session, I head directly for Mercedes hospitality. I had arranged for the legendary Ari Vatanen to dine and watch the race here, a fitting choice given that it’s the home of his fellow Finn, Valtteri Bottas. An early lunch awaits: a refreshing Thai prawn and pineapple salad, followed by a hearty roast chicken breast with mash and cauliflower, rounded off with freshly diced fruit. It’s a well-balanced meal designed to sustain me through the demanding afternoon and, hopefully, all the way home – strikes permitting, of course.
1pm
Liberty Media’s revised race day schedule means a significant wait until 2:30 pm before the pit lane officially opens for pre-race preparations. During this elongated period, all drivers are intensely occupied with their strategy meetings, track parades, or grabbing a quick lunch. Similarly, team bosses are either engrossed in last-minute logistical challenges or engaging in crucial networking, sweet-talking sponsors over extended lunches. The result is a peculiar lull in the paddock, with virtually no one available for interviews or casual conversation for a good 90 minutes. This, in my candid opinion, is arguably the most boring part of the entire race weekend, a stark contrast to the usual hustle and bustle of a Grand Prix. The lack of activity for media and fans alike during this prolonged interval only adds to the sense of a prolonged wait, though Lewis Hamilton’s post-grand prix comments, where he admitted to barely pushing, might suggest he found the on-track action similarly uneventful, perhaps even agreeing with my assessment of the weekend’s overall pace.
2:30pm
Finally, the pit lane opens, and I make my way down – always the most engaging part of the weekend, as I’ve detailed in previous diaries. It’s a flurry of activity, a dynamic showcase of mechanics and engineers making final adjustments. On my return to the Media Centre, however, the sights I encountered around the circuit reinforce my earlier observations. The grandstands, once overflowing, now reveal noticeable empty seats. Balconies that should be teeming with VIPs are sparsely packed. And even on the vantage point of Pecheurs hill, nestled below the castle, there are open spaces. It’s an undeniable truth: Monaco is nowhere near its capacity. The visual evidence suggests a marked drop in attendance, a stark contrast to the event’s historical image as a sell-out. I also can’t help but notice a curious conflict in branding: Monaco’s official watch is, as emblazoned on barriers, banners, and even on the attire of grid girls and guys, TAG Heuer. Yet, Formula 1’s overarching timing partner is Rolex. This juxtaposition highlights the complex, multi-layered world of F1 sponsorship, where different entities vie for visibility and association with the sport’s most prestigious events.
5pm
My final interview slot is an exclusive session with Robert Fernley of Force India, followed by group sessions with Toto Wolff, the influential team principal of Mercedes, Kimi Raikkonen, the enigmatic Ferrari driver, and the authoritative FIA Race Director, Charlie Whiting. It’s a demanding schedule, but one that offers invaluable insights into the sport’s operations and the minds of its key players. I wrap up precisely at 7 pm, ready to hit the road for Nice Airport. The journey, a mere 25 miles, historically demands a generous two hours due to the notoriously heavy post-race traffic. To my pleasant surprise, the drive this evening takes less than an hour, offering a brief moment of relief and efficiency after a long day.
9pm
Car returned, bags checked in, I settle into the (predictably packed) lounge at Nice Airport, only to be greeted with the dispiriting news that my Brussels flight is delayed by “at least 90 minutes due to a strike.” The reason the lounge is so packed quickly becomes apparent: virtually every single one of the ten flights listed on the departure board is displaying a similar delay. I spend the extended wait in conversation with Force India’s Otmar Szafnauer and Andrew Green, sharing war stories of travel disruptions until their respective flights are finally called. We eventually board our flight shortly after 11 pm, but the ordeal isn’t over. The captain greets us with further disheartening news: we are grounded for “another 90 minutes” due to ongoing air traffic control restrictions. As I drift in and out of consciousness, punctuated by cabin updates that offer little positive news, a recurring thought begins to solidify: is Monaco’s dwindling audience partly a direct consequence of these incessant travel disruptions and logistical nightmares?
After all, why would someone go to the considerable effort and expense of visiting a circuit which, more often than not, delivers on-track tedium rather than exhilarating racing, only to invariably face such profound strife and inconvenience in their travel? Is the inherent glamour and prestige of Monaco enough to compensate for these growing frustrations? Or perhaps, has the place simply lost some of its once-irresistible allure? The experience of the 2018 Monaco Grand Prix, from the quiet streets to the empty seats, and culminating in the exasperating travel home, paints a picture of an event struggling to maintain its legendary status in an evolving Formula 1 landscape. We finally arrive home at a weary 3:30 am – well over three hours late – and this diary entry is updated after a mere four hours’ sleep, a testament to the enduring impact of the day. This marks the second Monday in as many Grand Prix weekends that has been severely disrupted by the persistent French strikes, a frustrating pattern that casts a long shadow over the European leg of the F1 calendar.
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